LATEST / JUL 2026

The founder’s story / Retail & everyday design

Melissa Mash and the trouble with a beautiful bag

At Coach, Melissa Mash kept hearing what handbags failed to do. With Dagne Dover, she turned those complaints into a company - and built a three-founder partnership designed to carry its own weight.

Melissa Mash had a thousand-dollar handbag and a laptop that would not fit inside it. She was at business school, where the point of looking professional was presumably to be ready for work. Her bag appeared to have missed the meeting. Around her, classmates were dressing for recruiting events while hauling a second bag or searching through the first for a résumé. An expensive accessory had quietly created an unpaid administrative job.

She had heard versions of the complaint before. At Coach’s Heathrow store, customers wanted room for the objects that actually accompanied them: computers, bottles, wallets, keys. They needed one bag to manage several parts of a day. The gap between a polished exterior and a useful interior became the opening for Dagne Dover, the company Mash launched with Deepa Gandhi and Jessy Dover in 2013.

The idea had the advantage of being explainable without a slide deck. Put the bottle somewhere it will stand up. Give the laptop a proper place. Make the keys available without an archaeological expedition. Mash’s contribution was to recognize that these small indignities belonged together, and that enough people might pay to be rid of them.

An education on both sides of the counter

Mash grew up in Pepper Pike, Ohio. Visits to her sister in New York exposed her to the city’s fashion and the creativity around Canal Street. She came to NYU for college, then entered Coach through an internship, learning wholesale before becoming an account associate. The route into bags began with an established company and the practical business of getting products to customers.

She later helped launch Coach’s wholesale e-commerce channel. That work placed her close to department stores and the consequences of their decisions. In 2008, as the financial crisis unfolded, she watched discounting turn into a contest to clear inventory. A brand could work carefully on its product and still have limited influence over how a retailer sold it.

London supplied another education. Working for Coach’s UK distributor at Heathrow Terminal 5, she had responsibility for a store’s operations, merchandising, inventory, and team. At 24, she was being asked to make the pieces function together. The customer standing in front of her supplied a fairly immediate verdict on whether they did.

Her account of growing up with Korean parents also helps explain her willingness to question familiar arrangements. Watching them work out American conventions taught her that normal depended on where you stood. A fashion industry habit could therefore be examined rather than inherited. A handbag’s interior was one such habit: established, recognizable, and open to improvement.

Three people, different jobs

Mash entered Wharton with a business in mind. She had once expected work experience to provide all the preparation she needed; the entrepreneurial community around companies such as Warby Parker helped persuade her that formal training and a network would be useful. She graduated with her MBA in 2012, having used school as a place to develop the business.

She already knew Gandhi. They had met socially in New York in 2007, and Mash had introduced her to a Club Monaco contact when Gandhi wanted to move from finance into fashion. That introduction led to a retail job. Later, with Mash in her second year at Wharton and Gandhi in her first, a focus group gave them another reason to work together.

For design, Mash went looking. Jessy Dover’s work caught her attention, including her success in the Coach Accessories Design Competition at Parsons. Mash could recognize the aesthetic she wanted without pretending she possessed the skills to create it. Recruiting a designer who understood both the object and its commercial life was a consequential admission of what she needed.

Dagne Dover co-founders Jessy Dover, Melissa Mash, and Deepa Gandhi standing together
Three founders, three sets of skills. Jessy Dover, Melissa Mash, and Deepa Gandhi, from left. Photo: Dagne Dover, via NYU Entrepreneurship.

The eventual division of work gave Dover the creative and product role, Gandhi operations and finance, and Mash the chief executive’s view, informed by wholesale and stores. Their backgrounds overlapped enough to make conversation possible and differed enough to give it a purpose. The company’s organization had received some of the attention they were asking customers to expect from a bag.

The inside gets a vote

Before launch, the team surveyed and held focus groups with more than 1,000 women and men, drawing on Wharton and people beyond it. Mash studied pricing, worked on a marketing independent study with professor David Bell, and took a supply-chain and operations course in China. The questions in the classroom had a destination: a product somebody would choose to carry.

Research is a rather unromantic word for asking people exactly where their daily routine falls apart. Yet it suits this business. The problem was physical and specific. A bag might contain enough space in total while failing to arrange that space usefully. Its owner would discover the difference at a station, a desk, or an apartment door.

The first version of the business was less tidy than the brief. Early samples were rough; initial production took place in a small Garment District room. The website began working only minutes before the launch party. There is something reassuring about that detail. A company built around getting things in order still had to pass through the stage where almost nothing was.

Mash has described the early spending decision as product-led: put money into making the bags, then let customers show them to friends. Offices, gyms, and brunch tables became places where someone could open a bag and explain its appeal. The demonstration had a natural audience. Most people have needed to find a key in a hurry.

Money with a longer clock

The founders also thought about whose expectations they wanted attached to the business. When discussing their financing in 2018, they emphasized investors willing to give a consumer brand time to develop. Mash’s phrase was direct: “This could be a ten-year game.” The desired relationship left room for product and customer decisions that might take longer to pay off.

That patience was a choice about how to work. A brand needs inventory before it can sell, and decisions about inventory can outlast the mood of a quarter. Accepting capital also means accepting people into the room when those decisions become uncomfortable. The founders wanted backers who understood the pace of the thing they were making.

Mash’s Coach experience remained useful when Dagne Dover built its distribution. She had seen the vulnerability of depending on wholesale partners to drive sales. Selling directly gave the company a closer customer relationship; retailers could then provide another way to introduce the bags. By 2019, roughly 80 percent of revenue came from direct sales, a historical snapshot of that preference.

She continued to value the people on store floors. In 2024, more than a decade after launch, she was still personally training many wholesale partners’ sales associates. Her experience behind a counter had shown her how much a brand asks those people to do. A product story travels differently when the person telling it understands the details.

A company that talks things through

Mash places herself between business and creative work, with a background in the social sciences and arts. She has credited Gandhi with teaching her to overcommunicate. In a founding team, the unspoken assumption can be an expensive little object. Talking it through gives everyone a chance to find it before it causes trouble.

“Often the best answer isn’t ‘being right’ it’s moving forward.”Melissa Mash, on working with her co-founders

Her life contains an earlier kind of rehearsal: five years of classical singing training. She has described herself as an opera singer, and has said she would happily spend her days doing arts and crafts. Tony Hsieh’s Delivering Happiness, which she read in one sitting, influenced how she thought about customer experience. The interests suggest someone comfortable considering both how things feel and how they work.

In a 2024 account of her day, school drop-off preceded matcha and meetings about retailers, partnerships, the team, and planning. She and her co-founders still interviewed every employee they brought in. Evenings might involve an industry dinner or time building things with her two sons, while avoiding the occasional kicked ball. The daily schedule had acquired a few moving parts of its own.

Back to the people carrying it

2013The year Dagne Dover launched250+Retail locations reported in July 2026

The business has moved beyond its original work-bag brief. The Travel Edit brought rolling luggage, garment bags, and packing accessories into the range in 2024. The underlying question remained recognizable: what is the person trying to do, and how can the bag make that easier? An airport was still a useful place to begin.

By July 2026, Dagne Dover was carried in more than 250 retail locations. Mash described reducing spending on Google and Meta while investing attention in events, partnerships, and retail relationships. The brand’s League One Volleyball sponsorship, announced that March, took it into the routines of athletes and families. Her interest in international expansion now sits alongside the care she has long given to learning a market.

There is a pleasing consistency to that journey. A young retail operator listened to people explain what their belongings needed. Years later, the chief executive still makes time for people who sell the resulting bags. The company has more places to go, and the objects have multiplied. The original test remains wonderfully concrete: when you reach inside, can you find what you came for?

Keep the conversation going